GRITTY OR GLORIOUS? THE COMPLEX CHARACTER OF MARSEILLE

Edgy. Gritty. Diverse. Words that are frequently used to describe Marseille. The setting for numerous TV shows and films, France’s oldest city has a big personality but has long been dogged with a reputation for being somewhat ‘unsafe’ for tourists. Associations with drug trafficking and organised crime have perhaps been reinforced by films such as Jacques Audiard’s ‘A Prophet’, ‘The French Connection’ series or the brash ‘Marseille’ starring Gérard Depardieu, but is this reputation deserved or a clichéd stereotype?

Let’s take the grungy Cours Julien as a starting point. This part of the city is raucous and bohemian, the epicentre of Marseille’s street-art scene, with remarkable examples on every corner. While these days Notre-Dame-du-Mont is the hipster quarter, at its heart is one of the city’s most famous landmarks: the Escaliers du Cours Julien – a long flight of stairs lined on both sides with graffiti art. Yet at the top it’s surprising to find a chilled-out green space lined with trees. From early afternoon, this square is buzzing and alive with action, from street entertainers to musicians and buskers, and the terraces outside each bar are packed with a mix of locals and visitors.  That’s one thing about Marseille – it never ceases to defy expectations.

There are oodles of galleries, record stores and vintage shops to explore, and cafés, bars and craft breweries abound here too.

In reality, Marseille is a city of many faces and layers. A melting pot of cultures and cuisines, it’s one of Europe’s most fun and exciting places to visit for a weekend break. It has an inherent liveliness with welcoming and friendly people, an exciting food scene, world-class museums and a vibrant nightlife. It benefits from an idyllic location, with both the city and the sea on your doorstep.  The architecture is attractive and exciting – an eclectic mix of new and old – and the colourful shop fronts signal a respect for tradition and for the past. It’s a pleasure to explore its eclectic neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct character.

Often bypassed by visitors on the way to the glitzier cities of Cannes, Nice and St Tropez, Marseille has a charm that reveals itself slowly. It’s compact enough to explore most of the must-see sights on foot and a good place to start is the Vieux-Port – the beating heart of the city. The picturesque harbour is overlooked by Notre Dame de la Garde, known locally as La Bonne Mère – symbol of the city and reputed protector of sailors. It stands tall on a hilltop to the south of the city and is visible from almost every point.

The two faces of Marseille are most visible in historic Le Panier, the oldest neighbourhood in the city. Here, narrow winding streets lined with flowers, artist studios and craft shops contrast sharply with vibrant examples of street art. Expect lots of hills and many steps but it’s all part of the charm.

One of its biggest surprises is the delightful Place des Moulins. Hidden away at the top of a steep incline, visitors suddenly find themselves in a traditional Provençal-style village. Turn a corner and the atmosphere changes completely. Birdsong has replaced the bustle and noise of the city down below and everything is still and quiet. A fountain stands in the centre of a postcard-perfect square lined with trees, benches and attractive houses with pastel-coloured shutters.

Contrast this with the Quartiers Nord to the north, synonymous with sprawling tower block estates and high-rise apartments. The birthplace of footballer Zinedine Zidane has a grim reputation for crime and drugs, reinforced by sensationalised media coverage, while its seedy side has often been memorialised on screen.  

However, its beauty and charm have also captured the imagination of many directors. Richard Curtis chose the city as the setting for some of the most iconic scenes in his Christmas favourite Love Actually. When Colin Firth’s character Jamie declares his love to Aurelia, we first see him walking down La Montée des Accoules in the Panier district, while the main scene of their reunion is Bar de la Marine on the Vieux-Port.

Its cinematic qualities are also evident in the Vauban neighbourhood, notable for two reasons: the basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, and hills. Lots of very steep hills revealing unbeatable views of the city from above. The basilica towers above Marseille from the hilltop of Garde, and its viewing platforms offer a magnificent 360-degree panorama of the city, the sea and the islands of Frioul and If. The latter is home to the Château d’If, of Count of Monte Cristo fame.

There’s a cool, relaxed vibe to this neighbourhood and a village feel with bougie boutiques, yoga studios and trendy spots for brunch standing side-by-side with traditional boulangeries, cheese shops and patisseries.

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