DENIM, FROM COWBOYS TO CATWALKS

Denim has had the most spectacular glow up in fashion history, propelling itself from modest beginnings as humble workwear all the way to the catwalk. Impressive. Thus, it has become a wardrobe staple. An icon. Denim has evolved effortlessly through the decades. Continuously utilized to make statements and not just fashion statements, we are talking political and socio-economical too. In fact, this could be the most culturally impactful fabric in history.

Let’s go back to the very beginning. Where did denim come from? Believe it or not ‘denim’ is derived from French. It comes from the French phrase ‘Serge de Nîmes’, which literally translates to ‘Serge from Nîmes’. Oh là là. Nîmes being a town in the south of France where ‘Serge’, a twill fabric woven with a diagonal ribbing pattern, was produced. This particular Nîmes version was made from cotton and was known for its durability.

At the start, denim had much less to do with fashion than with practicality. Workers doing gruelling physical jobs needed a material that would last through some serious wear and tear. It needed to be as tough as they were. Perhaps this practical aspect laid the groundwork for denim’s endurance through time.

If like me, when you think of the origins of denim, you immediately think of cowboys and John Wayne, then all this talk of France is probably très confusing. That’s because the critical evolution from French textile to iconically American clothing happened in 1873. This was when a Latvian immigrant and tailor named Jacob Davis, based in Nevada, created the first pair of rivet reinforced denim trousers, or ‘pants’.

These were made for clients such as railroad workers and farmers. And yes, eventually cowboys. Yeehaw. Working class men who needed their clothes to keep up with the toughness of their jobs, which is exactly what Davis’ reinforced denim pants provided.

The denim pants soon became wildly popular, so Davis approached his fabric supplier, a dry goods merchant named Levi Strauss, to embark on a partnership to patent the design. Levi ringing some bells, isn’t it? Yes, it’s THAT Levi. Here was forged a long-lasting legacy of denim market domination.

So, what is it that has propelled denim into the limelight and kept it there for so long? Seemingly nothing can knock it off its pedestal. Umberto Eco, Italian philosopher, lands on a potential explanation for this in his book from 1986 ‘Travels in Hyperreality’, where he reflects on purchasing jeans:

‘With my new jeans my life was entirely exterior: I thought about the relationship between me and my pants, and the relationship between my pants and me and the society we lived in… I had achieved an epidermic self-awareness.’

Here he is suggesting that wearing denim can cause us to feel a particular way. This might reflect status, identity and what it means to be seen. Denim is more than what you wear, it is who you become when you are wearing it. There is that emotional element to fashion, which is particularly relevant to denim, that allows for a unique self-expression that rises above brand identity.

The widespread popularity of denim really took off after the end of WWII in the 50s and 60s. Wearing it became a symbol of rebellion against the establishment and also working-class pride. Denim jeans were also adopted by feminists, this being one of the earliest mainstream clothing items that was equal across genders. Not to mention the numerous Hollywood and music stars of time wearing them, many to make a stand against tradition.

Fashion Takes Hold

It wasn’t until 1976 that jeans finally hit the fashion runways, with trailblazing designer Calvin Klein leading the way. Symbolising that without a doubt jeans had made a remarkable transformation from simple workwear into something recognised as high fashion.

Quite the metamorphosis. Yves Saint Laurent famously said ‘I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity, all that I hope for in my clothes.’ With the blessing of the world’s biggest fashion designers, denim jeans were well and truly securing their place in fashion history.

Many purists could debate that the real reason for denim’s success lies somewhere between emotion and practicality. Denim endures physically, but it is also sympathetic to the changing feelings of the wearer. As fashion historian Emma McClendon put it, ‘Jeans are the most personal thing you can wear... They wear to the body.’

It could be confidently stated that denim is for everyone. It is one of those rare fashion pieces that bizarrely looks equally natural on both a farmer and a supermodel. Denim transcends age, gender and class. It is highly adaptable to fashion’s ever-changing trends, so it never disappears. Skinny, baggy, flared, raw, jeans for mums, jeans for dads, the list goes on.

Some might say that no, in fact denim is not for them. Perhaps believing that it is too mass produced, that it has lost its charm due to the fast fashion era we exist in.

That with endless options available, there is no longer anything rebellious, bold or impactful about it. Whether you love it or hate it, denim is undeniably irreplaceable. If you are someone who wants to stay ahead of the latest trends, or someone who focuses on eco-friendly fashion, or perhaps you couldn’t care less what you’re wearing, it is highly likely denim still features in your wardrobe. Denim is always a safe bet.

After all these years denim has held strong against the test of time. It sometimes gets a bad rap, but perhaps we ought to give it some credit for always being there for us like a reliable friend, comfortable and familiar. Also, I feel it’s only right to point out, if it helps anyone clarify their stance, that jeggings are not made from denim.

Amy is an established writer with a wide repertoire of work. Read Amy's other articles here.